Around the country, people have been
enjoying Dasain, a fifteen-day celebration which is the country’s biggest
festival. People eat special food, spend
time visiting each other’s houses and have a little bit of raksi, homemade Nepali wine!
I lost count of the amount of invitations I received from people, even
those I barely know, asking me to come to their homes and share their
food. As I have already said, Nepali generosity
goes above and beyond all expectations.
October 23rd and 24th marked
the main days of the festival, and the place was buzzing with activity. On Tuesday 23rd, I set off for
Sirutar once again to see my family there, as well as the Shrestha family in
Sirutar, who invited me to receive tika. This is a mixture of rice, yoghurt and red
powder called sindur which is placed
on the forehead. Tika represents the all-seeing third eye, and Hindu ceremonies are
often marked with this blessing. The
more recognisable bindis, or dots worn
on women’s foreheads, also represent this third eye, and have become a fashion
accessory as well as a representation of divine protection.
Once I finished there, I headed back
to Gatthaghar to meet with the headmistress of the Astha Women School, a school
for those who were unable to finish their education when they were young. She invited me to her home as well, and I was
given a generous meal there.
The following day was spent visiting
my host’s extended family and neighbours, and on this day I received tika no less than 5
times! It was a nice feeling to be
included in this practice, and on receiving it each time, I was given a handful
of beaten rice to eat, as well as a piece of fruit, some flowers in my hair,
and some Nepali money. To be honoured
this way is something the majority of tourists here in Nepal can’t experience,
and I really appreciated being a part of it.
Talking of exclusive access, on Saturday
20th October I took a rather long journey up high in the Kathmandu
hills to a Hindu temple called Palanchok Bhagwati. I was able to witness the ringing of temple
bells, the huge procession of people through the building, each placing
marigolds and gifts down for the gods and goddesses there. To be honest, some practices are completely
beyond my comprehension, but I watched with interest. However, when I was inside the temple, I had
to make a hasty exit from the place when I realised a little black goat I had
watched being blessed earlier was about to be sacrificed. Even as a meat-eater, and someone who has
actually eaten goat, this was too grotesque to handle and I had to leave. However, as much as I may hate it, it is seen
as an essential part of the religious rites here. Maybe it won’t always be that way, but it’s
not for me to turn my nose up at practices I don’t understand. I just couldn’t bear to witness it.
Religion is something from which I
have always been separate; merely an observer on the practices and customs of
each one I encountered. Faith and
worship often confuse and confound me; if you are Christian, looking at Hindu
and Buddhist practices must have the same effect. Similarly, explaining Christian beliefs to a
Hindu or Buddhist, or any other faith, can often lead to the same
bewilderment. However, being separate
from religions has its benefits. I can
watch a Christian service, take part in a Hindu ritual, visit a Buddhist
monastery, and view each as simply a culture’s way of making sense of the
inexplicable; the mysteries in life.
Some people choose to reject religion altogether, or to refuse to learn
about different faiths in case doing so shakes their own belief, but I think this
is simply a way to close yourself off to a rich world of views. Where is the capacity for appreciating a
culture which is so tightly bound in its faith if one rejects religion
altogether?
I’m glad that I’ve learnt to be
sensitive to other world views now even if they aren’t compatible with my own,
which is definitely something I have noticed more in myself since my first trip
to Nepal. Who am I to say who is wrong
or right? If someone wants to worship God, or many gods, or goddesses, or spirits,
how can I possibly know which is right? We’re
all just making sense of the world in the way which suits us best. If faith gives comfort, joy, something to
celebrate, or even the motivation to do good for others, then why not embrace
it? By opening my mind and allowing
myself to learn about various religions and their practices, it has made me
more tolerant and accepting of what I see.
I know it has made me a better person and I’m sure it would do the same
for anyone else who gives it a try.
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